This summer we went to the Weinviertel for the first time. Into the depths of Lower Austria, right on the Czech border, to Unterretzbach. A tranquil little winegrowing town, nestled in the harmonious, hilly landscape of “Austrian Tuscany” – surrounded by nothing but vineyards and in the middle of it all: loud, cheerful, real rock’n’roll – at Ramona and René Pollak’s winery
Rockabilly wine cult
.
How a rockabilly becomes a winemaker
If you come from a family of Austrian winegrowers, the third generation of which is rooted in the Weinviertel, you naturally go to viticulture school first. René Pollak, for example, was able to learn all kinds of viticultural skills at the renowned Krems. Around the same time, he discovered his love of rock’n’roll and the rockabilly lifestyle. Pomade in his hair, biker jeans and horn-rimmed glasses become his trademark. And “the wild dog from back then” finds everything too tight, he gives his father the sticky finger, doesn’t want to become a winemaker after all and leaves for the big city. René is still not in the mood for the family wine business and becomes an optician. A few years later, by chance, he returned and became a winegrower with heart, soul and a great vision.
Pollak’s Wirtshaus in the Retzbacher Hof
It is now more than 15 years since the municipality of Unterretzbach put the old village inn up for sale. René’s older brother Harald, himself a trained chef who had been living in Vienna for many years at the time, did not want to miss out on the opportunity, applied for the purchase and was awarded the contract. It quickly becomes clear between the brothers: “If you go back, I’ll come back too”. So while Harry takes over the inn with his wife Sonja, René convinces his wife Ramona to give country life a chance. After ten years of marriage and with two children, they dare to make a new start together.
Rockabilly wine cult
A rebel with a cause!
In 2013, the colorful dog returns to the village – the rockabilly wine cult is born. Just one year later, the first vintage is launched on the market. “For the love of wine and for the love of rock ‘n’ roll” is written on the label with an Elvis quiff and moustache – and it hits like a bomb.
René, of course, came up with the unusual design. His tattoo artist Markus then drew it before René’s cousin Matthias created the graphic design. Even today, the two winemakers come up with all their design ideas themselves at home at the kitchen table, from postcards to rockabilly wine coasters – everything is 100% homemade.
The wines
Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gelber Muskateller, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are cultivated on over 30 hectares. The soils are sandy and loamy, with character and personality. Like Ramona and René, whose heartfelt wish is for their wines to be fun above all else. Enjoyment should not be complicated, which is why the two prefer to leave such wines, for which you need to have completed 37 sommelier courses, to others.
Wines that rock!
We particularly liked the Stoanan 2019 – a Veltliner as it should be. Yellow, fresh fruit and some citrus on the nose, lots of fruit on the palate, multi-layered, mineral, with a good acid structure. A wine that simply rocks!
The vines grow at the foot of the Manhartsberg on very sandy, gravelly, almost rocky soils – we are glad that René has also bottled a few magnums for us.
The 2019 Pinot Blanc – Herrenkult is also excellent. Fine aromas of cookie, pear and hazelnut characterize the harmonious wine of this new series. Creamy and firm at the same time, it flatters the palate and simply makes you want more.
We also tasted the Frizzante Rosé, the Gelber Muskateller 2019 and the exotic Elias 2019 – a Rotgipfler (a cross between Traminer and Roter Veltliner), which smells of yellow tropical fruit and has great ageing potential with its complexity, fruity sweetness and beautiful acidity. Let’s see how long the bottles last in our cellar.
The farm store & dispatch
The first port of call for the rockabilly wine cult is today’s Kabinett. Since 2015, the old smithy has functioned as a mix of office, tasting venue, farm store and boutique. In addition to the wines, all kinds of accessories in the style of the 1950s are also on sale. Of course, all wines and accessories are also available for online delivery to Austria, Germany and the EU.
Murmelz tip
Off to the Weinviertel! A visit to Unterretzbach is doubly worthwhile. Wine tasting at the Rockabilly Wine Cult followed by dinner at
Pollak’s Wirtshaus in the Retzbacher Hof
. With so much pleasure and enjoyment, it is a must to stay overnight.
Murmelz Vote
The passion of Weinviertel rockabillies Ramona and René Pollak is infectious! Pure joy in a glass without a lot of chichi and compromises ensures real cult and addictive status. Wines that rock and are fun to drink. Murmelz loves!
ROCKABILLY WINE CULT
Hauptstraße 21 | A-2074 Unterretzbach | Austria
+43 676 926 3546 |
office@rockabilly-weinkult.at
|
www.rockabilly-weinkult.at
